25. Leaving Charlotte Sound and a Leadership Crisis
Having procured a sufficient supply of wood and water, on the
6th of February, 1770, the wind being northerly, we left Charlotte
Sound, sailing along the coast to the eastward: but it falling
calm towards evening, we anchored about three quarters of a mile
from the Hippa in ten fathoms of water, and sent our boats a-fishing.
The next morning [2/7] we made sail, but the tide son after carried
us rapidly towards a cluster of rocks, projecting from an island
at a small distance, and the wind failing, our situation became
justly alarming. At this time one of the principal officers proposed
endeavouring to cross the tide, and gain a passage between two
islands and this gentleman's station made his proposal, though
impracticable, of so much importance at this critical season,
that the captain, who was about to give orders of a different
kind, became irresolute; and during the dispute which this contrariety
of opinion occasioned, we were carried so near the rocks that
our preservation appeared almost impossible; and at this critical
juncture we could only let go our best bower, which we instantly
did, with all sail standing, in seventy-five fathom; and after
veering out a hundred and sixty fathoms of cable, we found the
ship brought up by her anchor, to our great joy. But had this
expedient failed, she must have been irrecoverably lost, and all
her crew left either to build a vessel to transport themselves
to the East-Indies; or , if that should be impracticable, to pass
their lives in New Zealand, if they should be able to defend themselves
from the jaws of the cannibals.
26. Cook explores the Strait between New Zealand's Islands
It ought to be remarked, that Tasman, when he visited Murderers
Bay, imagined that there must be a streight running through the
country to the opposite shore; and this he did from observing
that the flood-tide ran in strong from S.E. and therefore while
lying in Charlotte Sound, we had ascended the top of a neighbouring
mountain, to see if we could observe the appearance of a streight
or passage, which we there discovered, and upon enquiring of the
natives concerning it, they told us it was navigable to the other
side of the country; and that the southern division of New Zealand
might be sailed round in one of their canoes in four days time.
This information determined us to make the experiment; and accordingly
we stood toward the streight, which we found, and passed the next
day, near the middle of the channel; and, though the land was
visible on each side, yet, to prevent the possibility of a deception,
after passing the streight, we stood to the northward until we
made Cape Turnagain, which we did on Friday noon: and having thus
determined the reality of the streight, we altered our course
to the southward, resolving to sail round the other division of
New Zealand. We continued our course, expecting to find the land
incline to the westward, but were disappointed in our expectation:
indeed we observed something like the appearance of a passage
some leagues south from the streights, but the whole company were
divided in opinion about the matter; thought from the reports
of the Indians, it is not improbable that there was a passage
navigable for their canoes, if not for vessels of burthen.
27. The Endeavour takes a long time to circumnavigate the South
Island.
We persisted in our design of discovering whether the southern
division of New Zealand was an island or continent, but were frequently
opposed in our course by heavy winds from the south, in one of
which, on the 26th of February, our foresail was irreparably torn
in pieces, and our main topsail divided asunder; and the gale
continuing violent for several days after compelled to lie to.
The tempestuous season advancing fast, and the air being very
cold, we began to despair of a southern passage, having been more
than a month employed on a discovery which might have been completed
with favourable winds in a few days.
On the 9th of March, at four in the morning, after having complained
of the want of wind all night, we were surprised to find a ledge
of rocks about half a mile forwards, and extending a-cross both
our bows. We had ten abundant reason to rejoice at the providential
calm the preceding night, as a few minutes favourable wind would
have occasioned our certain destruction. These rocks lie S.E.
from the southern extreme of New Zealand, and at the distance
of twenty miles.
On the 10th we doubled the Southern Cape in latitude 47°39'S.
and longitude 191°35'W. and again stood to the northward on the
west-side, with a favourable wind; intending to return to Charlotte
Sound, and replenish our stores of wood and water, if no convenient
place was discovered nearer. The land on this part of the coast
afforded a most dreary prospect, and consisted of very high mountains
covered with snow, and falling by the steepest descent immediately
into the sea, without the smallest beach or landing--place. Nor
could we any where discover the smallest appearance of a human
inhabitant.
On Monday the 26th of March, in latitude 40°32', being thirty-three
miles north from Charlotte Sound, we stood into a deep bay or
sound, having islands on both sides, and thirty-six fathom of
water at one mile distance from shore; and steering in S. by W.
we anchored in Admiralty Bay on the left side in eleven fathom
muddy ground; and mooring with the stream-anchor, began to supply
our stock of wood and water. We found this place entirely uninhabited,
and but badly sheltered from easterly winds. But it afforded plenty
of wood and water, as well as of fish, of which we caught more
than sufficient for our consumption with hooks. We discovered
an old house by the side of a mountain, at a little distance from
the bay, and the wreck of an old canoe lying in a cove contiguous
to it. We had now passed near six months on the coast of New Zealand,
had surveyed it on every side, and, which was not before known,
had discovered it to be an island near three hundred leagues in
length, and inhabited by cannibals, habituated to the carnage
of war from infancy, and of all mankind the most fearless and
insensible of dangers.
28. The first Cook expedition leaves New Zealand.
On the 31st of March we left Admiralty Bay, and sailed south-westerly,
towards New Holland, taking our departure from a point which we
named Cape Farewell. By instructions, opened here, we were directed
to return home by Cape Hormor, and to stop at the East Indies,
if necessary.
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